My Brief Stint as a Minor Celebrity in Inner Mongolia

Ni Hao Everyone!

Today is my last day in Hohhot.  I leave for Beijing tomorrow, and then head to Bangkok on Wednesday.  

This morning I was on a radio show -  90.1 FM Hohhot!  They interviewed me about Aston School and people called in wanting to know how to improve their English and to guess where I was from. It was fun!  My last few weeks here have been packed with dinners and lunches and outings with my students, including a lunch in a yurt with traditional Mongolian singers!  One of my students and her mother stop by my house all the time to give me gifts.  Chinese hospitality is incredibly overwhelming. They either won't speak to you at all, or they smother you with attention and gifts. 

I have really enjoyed my time with my students.  They loved the English books that I gave them (thanks for sending them Mom!) and the $1 bills and the Reese's Peanut Butter Cups.  Many of them have pleaded with me not to go back to the America.  I have to admit, I've been teary eyed a few times, and I know that I will probably cry at the airport tomorrow when little Amy says goodbye to me. All in all, it's been a wonderful experience.  

Oh, and if anyone has sent me mail, I apologize on behalf of the Chinese Postal System, because I haven't received anything! Efficiency is not one of their skills...

Enjoy the photos, and I will be in touch from Thailand.

Love,

Kendall

Best Day in China EVER!

Hi all!

Friday the 13th was the BEST day I've had in China yet!  The date of this great day is quite ironic... Click here to see the photo gallery of my day:

http://gallery.me.com/eprepservices#100078

At 10am I met my 7 year old student Amy, her mother, and our Chinese teacher at the school.  We drove down to the New Market to see the painting studio of Amy's calligraphy teacher (a few days earlier Amy's mother presented me with two of Amy's calligraphy paintings, which are beautiful).  He is the most famous painter in Inner Mongolia, and his paintings are very expensive.  Amy walked me through the various stores of antiques and artifacts shouting "Wow! Kendall! Look at this! Look at that!".  We strolled through the plaza and I bought some old Chinese coins green with patina, perfect for necklace pendants.

They took me back to the Dazhou temple, where we lit incense and prayed to Buddha and his myriad of saints.  Amy wished for straight A's in all of her classes, while I said a prayer of gratitude for everything and everyone in my life, and the happiness of the day.  We wandered around and I bought some prayer flags for myself and Aunt Jen (she had put in a request!).  

Hungry, we drove to the Bayantala Hotel for lunch, the nicest hotel in Hohhot.  Amy's mother treated us to Beijing Duck, which is a specialty in China.  We had our own private room and the table was quickly covered with massive quantities of food, including duck, shrimp, cucumber, fried corn and exotic vegetables like cooked lotus leaf stem.  Amy's mother had brought a bottle of the best drinkable yogurt, which was packaged and boxed up like the finest wine.  In China when you treat a guest to a meal, it is important to order too many dishes and have food left over, to show the guest how important they are.  Needless to say I was stuffed and we didn't finish all of the food!

After lunch we drove to the indoor flower market where Amy frolicked and we bought Valentine's Day roses.  I was not allowed to buy anything for Amy or her mother - I was their guest for the day and was treated to everything.  They even helped me run some errands, like purchasing wine for my adult students.  Exhausted, Amy's mother said she was taking me to Pizza Hut so that we could eat again and "have a rest".

So, at 4:30pm we drove to Pizza Hut.  Unlike in America, Pizza Hut is a VERY nice restaurant.  We had coffee and of course I can't say no to pizza so I ate again!  Amy's mother even ordered a hot fudge sundae to surprise me and the Chinese teacher.  At 6pm they dropped me back off at the school, where I met my adult students for dinner!

My adult students took me and my foreign manager to dinner at a nice Islamic restaurant with a private room.  The 15 of us swapped stories and laughed and of course ATE AGAIN.  After dinner they had made a reservation at the KTV (karaoke bar) across the street.  It was super fancy with a private room, an array of drinks, and a spread of fresh fruit.  They sang traditional Chinese songs and the ballad from "Titanic", while I was forced to sing George Michael and 'N Sync.  It was hilarious!

Yesterday was truly everything I dreamt that teaching in China would be.  I have enjoyed my relationships with my students immensely.  I feel very blessed for these experiences and for the opportunity to be here.  Finally, I can say "I love China!" and it's because of my wonderful students.

Ah man!  I'm getting all choked up....

Enjoy the photos! I love you all!

-Kendall

Quote of the week...

My students continue to be hilarious.  I have a one-on-one class with a bright young man named Caleb who is a university student trying to get to England to study electrical engineering.  He was telling me about his favorite movie.  He said that he didn't know the English name of it, but it was during World War II, about a man and his son: 

Caleb:  "You know, during World War II, with that bad man, Shitler."

Kendall:  "Excuse me, who?"

Caleb:  "Shitler."

Kendall:  (laughing) "Shitler? Shitler? Oh oh! You mean HITLER!"

At this point I had to explain two words to him, one being "shit" and the other being "Hitler".  It was a joy to point out to him that his minor error was, in fact, very accurate, since Hitler was a total shit.  In any case, can you guess the movie??  "Life is Beautiful", of course...

Currently my adult students are competing over the latest issue of "People" magazine that I bought in Shanghai for nearly $10, and my little girls are learning how to spell their numbers.  My mid-level students, including the infamous 7-year-old named Amy, continue to delight me with their witty expressions.  Today, while Amy was drawing a hippo, I was talking to our Chinese teacher Yoyo (great names, huh?) about my plans after my contract is up:

Yoyo: "Will you travel in China after you are done?"

Kendall:  "No....I'm going to Thailand.  It's too cold in China..."

Amy:  (very annoyed)  "That's because it's WINTER!!!"

And so of course I accepted a lunch invitation with little Amy and her mother for Friday afternoon. She is hilarious, gifted, and precocious.  She is also a gifted calligrapher, chess player and EATER. Lunch will be a comedy act.  I will keep you posted....

Love you all...

Kendall

Life in Inner Mongolia

Hi All,

Well, I only have 2 more weeks of teaching left!  I will be heading to Thailand around February 24th! Hurray! I have become quite attached to my kids though, so it's sad to think that this time has gone so fast.  

This week I indulged in traditional Mongolian hot-pot, which is kinda like the fondue of Genghis Khan. I'm serious.  Genghis Khan invented it.  I guess he was trying to eat before a big battle, and the cook was so slow and the other army was advancing so quickly, that Genghis just threw all of the meat and vegetables into a pot of boiling water and fished them out as they came to the surface...

Speaking of fish, they put the WHOLE FISH into the hot-pot...It was pretty tasty. I tried mutton too. Things are getting crazy up here!  The weather is getting warmer and my eyeballs don't freeze in my head any more.  Oh, and I finally went to the fancy bar at the Holiday Inn, and it WAS actually quite fancy. One drink cost the same as our entire meal at our local, whole-in-the-wall restaurant, where I got to hold a local baby and make it cry - every Chinese baby is ridiculously cute!

Today I visited the Inner Mongolia Museum with Arena, my Chinese co-teacher.  She is a very sweet girl, but I don't think anyone has told her that her English name means "sports stadium".  I learned about the Mongolian landscape, the history and the culture.  I even got to see traditional dancing!  They had amazing life-like wax figures of Genghis Khan (whose name means "universal ruler"), and they even had one of him meeting Marco Polo!

My Chinese has improved, and the greatest achievement of my trip so far was when I went to a local restaurant by myself this week, and ordered in Chinese.  I was ridiculously proud of myself.  It doesn't take much to please me...

Enjoy the pictures!

Love,

Kendall

Shanghai: City of Scams and Sights

Ni Hao!

After a week in Shanghai for Chinese New Year, I made it back to Hohhot safely tonight.  Aside from the fact that my taxi driver charged me double the normal fare from the airport, which I argued about vehemently in "Englishnese" (a combination of my Chinese/English language skills), all is well and I had a nice time in Shanghai.

For my last day in the modern, cosmopolitan city I had lunch with my friend's cousin's friend (thanks Anne and Matt!) and scouted the local DVD shops on Dagu Lu.  I bought 8 new releases (like "The Wrestler" and "Revolutionary Road") for only $1 each.  What a deal!  Then I walked through the stylish, new, Taiwan-built shopping area called Xintiandi.  Finally, on my last day, I saw some cool areas.

To top off my day, I took a cab to the YuYuan Gardens and Bazaar.  This is in the heart of the Old Chinese City, where back in the day of colonialism, the Chinese built a round wall around their city (a mini version of the Great Wall, if you will), and disallowed all western visitors.  No foreigners were allowed inside, and if you somehow got in, you were killed immediately.

The Bazaar was decked out with lanterns and decorations for the new year, and full of people actually celebrating (imagine that!) and eating things like soup-filled dumplings.  An oasis of calm in the midst of the chaos was the YuYuan Garden, which was built by Ming Dynasty officials in the 16th century and had beautiful fish ponds, trees and buildings.  It was so nice to see something aesthetically pleasing!

It rained all day, which gave the city a nice misty effect.  Shanghai has a lot to offer, both culturally and culinarily.  I would recommend it, aside from the tea house scams :)  

I have 3 more weeks of teaching in Hohhot and then will head down to Thailand!  I hope you are having a wonderful 2009 so far, the year of the Ox!

Love,

Kendall

Shanghai Surprise

Hi all,

All is well in Shanghai...no more scamming so far.  As Anders said, I have to revert to being 5 years old and practice "Stranger Danger".  It worked yesterday!

Yesterday I went to the Shanghai Museum of Contemporary Art - why this museum is not in my guidebook is a mystery to me.  It had an amazing exhibit called "Couples in Contemporary Art", and featured artists who are also husband and wife.  It was really beautiful.  I sat on their rooftop and had a coffee and enjoyed the sun for the first time in 3 weeks.

Then I took the subway down to Nanjing Lu, which is a pedestrian shopping mall.  When I exited the station, I am not exaggerating when I say that there were millions of people.  You had to swim through the crowd, or with it, just to get any where.  So I swam with the crowd down to The Bund - or waterfront - that overlooks the river and the Oriental Pearl, which is Asia's tallest building.  The crowd was overwhelming, so I chose not to take a river cruise or cross the river to go up the Pearl.

I was of course the only westerner on the waterfront.  All of China is here in Shanghai for the Chinese New Year it seems.  When I stopped to eat my sandwich and drink my water, people literally stopped, gaped, and took out their cameras.  It was hilarious and awkward.  I was a zoo animal to them!

My guidebook failed me again when I tried to find the waterfront museum, where you can supposedly sit and have a drink and be free of the crowds.  Curiously, every building on the waterfront is closed and construction cranes are everywhere.  Perhaps the city is beautifying for the Shanghai Economic Expo? Nontheless, my trust in the Let's Go guidebooks has been thoroughly broken.  Someone send me a Lonely Planet!

Enjoy a few pictures...I love you all!

Kendall

Don't fall for these Chinese scams (like I did)

Here are some useful links for avoiding scams in Beijing and Shanghai.  Yours truly fell for both the tea house and the art gallery scam, so I can tell you that there is a REASON these people are called con-artists.  They are incredibly good at the subtle scam.  Most Chinese seem terrified of me, so from now on, anyone who approaches me is going to get the cold shoulder. Sorry, but it's true...

Dang it! I want my 200 yuan back! That's a long, hard day of teaching!  Supposedly the local police are completely aware of these scams but they do nothing to stop them.  
Shame on you Shanghai...

http://blog.chineseoutpost.com/2006/06/26/the-beijing-tea-scam-variations-traveler-beware/

http://www.chinatravel.net/forum/Shanghai-Warning-ESL-student-Tea-House-scam/366.html

I've been HAD...again.

Well, I've been scammed for the second time in China.  I am really, really sad because I want so badly to make friends in this country, and to love it here, and my experiences are just making me lose faith in my love for traveling.

In Beijing on my first day, I was approached by two young "university students" who were on their way to their "student art show".  I thought I was so lucky to be meeting nice, English speaking art students on my first day.  Their "art show" was counterfeit art that had been reproduced and they were selling it as "student art".  I had to make a purchase before I was allowed to leave.  I cried on my way to the Forbidden City.

Today in Shanghai, on Chinese New Year, I went to the People's Square in hopes of seeing...you know, people.  No one seems to celebrate Chinese New Year like the travel channel makes you believe.  There were no lion dances, no fireworks, no crowds or parades.  So I decided to see the Shanghai Museum (beautiful old bronze artifacts and Chinese calligraphy), and the Shanghai Art Museum (wonderful contemporary paintings by Wu Guangzhou).  

On my way back around People's Square, in hopes of getting something to eat, a group of "students" said hello to me and began talking about Obama and America, etc. etc.  They asked me where I was going, and I said I was going to get something to eat.  They said they were "students" from another city outside of Shanghai and were celebrating their vacation in the city. A friend of theirs had recommended a tea ceremony, and they were wondering if I would like to go with them.  At this point you are probably thinking "Kendall! It's SO OBVIOUS!"  but at the time, it seemed very legitimate and I did a gut check and my instincts said that I would be safe.

So off I go down the street with this group of "students" - 2 boys and 2 girls.  When we arrive in the mall-like building they act lost, and as though they can't find the number of the tea house.  They find it and in we go.  The entire tea ceremony was very cool.  I thought how lucky I was to have made friends in Shanghai, and to have people to talk to, and we even made plans to see the Yuyuan Gardens tomorrow.  My naivete is embarrassing...

And then the bill came...People, let me just tell you that the total was EXORBITANT, something like 2,400 Yuan, which is $350 dollars.  I had seen the menu when we sat down - the tea service was 30 yuan per person, and then 39 yuan for each tea.  I should have been paying all of 69 yuan.  At this point, I knew it was a scam and that my "friends" were in cahoots with the tea house.  The "students" expected me to pay for myself and for the girl who had "translated" the service for me and for most of their expenses as well.  I luckily had not carried my ATM card with me, and had only 220 yuan on me.  I pulled out the 200 yuan I had and told them flat out that this was all I had.  They said they would put the rest of the bill on one of the guy's cards and I could "pay them back".  

I was pretty panicked at this point and knew I had to get out of there.  One person against four people doesn't really work.  As we were leaving the room they said "we have to exit this way to get to the street", which was down a long mysterious hallway that we did NOT enter from.  I told them no, we came this way and walked back the way I had come.  When I reached the ground floor, they again told me "we have to go this way to get to the street", I looked around, saw a policeman and said, "no, the metro is this way".  I'm not incredibly stupid.  I might be trusting but I do not go down unknown hallways with "students" who scam me.  I knew they were really hoping to rob me.  They were still keeping up their act when we parted ways.

I was just relieved to be heading back to the unassuming subway.  I cried on my way there.  I didn't even care.  People stare at me anyway.  Let them have a real reason to stare.  I am very hurt, because I am really trying my best to learn this culture and to meet people and to be a good citizen of the world.  I am sad because now I will not trust someone whose intention are genuine, because I have had such a scary experience.

The subway had never looked so good...I spent my last remaining yuan on a subway ticket and "convenient noodles" (AKA instant noodles).  I'm back at the hotel, with a sad heart but a safe body.  I hope that these experiences don't complete jade my trip, but I must admit, this is the most difficult country I have ever traveled in (and I've traveled in many).  But tomorrow I will head out there again, and I will remember that if anyone approaches me, it's probably not out of the goodness of their heart, but out of the desire of their pocketbook.  Oh, and I'm gonna put my money in my shoe...

Love,

Kendall

Can you say COLD?

Um, people...it is currently -27 degrees fahrenheit in Hohhot.  It was so cold today that on the way to and from school, the snot froze in my nose, and my eyes watered incessantly in order to keep my eyeballs from freezing into icy orbs.  It is RIDICULOUSLY cold.  Tomorrow I do not teach and I am planning on staying in bed where it is warm.  I can't remember the last time i felt cold weather like this.  Tomorrow the high is -17 degrees!  We're having a heat wave!

Of course the day was warmed with the usual excellent quotes.  I don't know where my kids come up with this stuff.

Question:  Who is a person that cooks dinner?  (Answers in their books include "cook", "mom", and "dad").

Answer:  A housewife!! (said by my famous 7 year old incredulously, because she thought I was an idiot for not knowing that housewives are the only people who cook.)

Quote from adult student:  "Kendall! I am so sorry I'm late to class! The bus is like a giant turtle!"

Quote from adult class:  "Where there is real love, there is a way."  

(This quote was created by playing the game "Telephone". The original quote was of course "where there is a will, there is a way", but I prefer the new one...)

I leave for Shanghai on Saturday and will spend 6 days there.  Chinese New Year is on Sunday, and I am wishing everyone much luck in the new lunar year.  May all of your fabulous housewife dreams come true....

Love,

Kendall

My Chinese students rock...

You know that TV show "Kids Say The Darndest Things'"??  Well, my Chinese students say HILARIOUS things.  I'm trying as best as I can to keep track of them, but it's difficult, because I laugh so hard every day and I can't remember them all.  I am really enjoying each and every one of my students.  Here are some examples of hilarity:

Question:  What is something nice to drink on a hot day?

Answer:  SCOTCH WHISKEY!!! SCOTCH WHISKEY!!! (shouted at the top of her 7 year old lungs)

Question:  What is your favorite movie?

Answer:  High School Musical (see people!? it IS cool to like these movies!)

Question:  Why do you like High School Musical?

Answer:  Because the boy falls into a love river (duh Kendall)

Question:  Do you know what pajamas are?

Answer:  Yes, I do, but I believe it is most healthy to sleep without them (the entire class agreed. China is full of nudists!)

And perhaps the best and most inspirational answers I have received were from my adult students tonight.   In honor of our new president, I asked them about Obama, if they liked him (an unanimous yes) and WHY they liked him.  

Question:  Why do you like Obama?

Answer:  Because he is a black man, because he is kind, because he is kind to China, because he has many Chinese on his staff, because he will end the war in the Middle East, because he will fix the American economy, because he is a good father, because he is brave, because he makes me feel hope...

Here's to that hope...

I love you all,

Kendall

The Buddhist Temples of Hohhot

on saturday i ventured out into hohhot to see the city's two buddhist temples.  xilituzhao has the largest stupa of inner mongolia, and dazhao is a buddhist lamasery.  i saw a huge buddha carved out of one piece of white jade, and an enormous statue of the goddess of mercy, guanyin.  both temples were very beautiful.  to see more photos, click on the link below:

http://gallery.me.com/eprepservices#100068

you can also see the dirt and trash of china, and the people getting ready for chinese new year (lots of lanterns and firecrackers).  i head to shanghai on saturday to spend chinese new year wandering around the "paris of the east". i just hope there's coffee....

my classes are great - a lot of work, but well worth it.  i laugh hysterically every day.  today i asked one of my classes to draw 3 things and to write what it is and what it's made of.  the best answer i got was from an advanced 7 year old who drew a picture of her father.  this is what she wrote:

"this is my father. he's made of meat.  he is my doormat.  he comes from my grandmother."

it doesn't get more honest than that....

Aston English School - Hohhot

Hi all!

So, I've been teaching for 4 days now in Hohhot, and so far, so good!  I am adjusting more to life in China, I think.  I have three classes a day, four days a week. They are long days...I'm here from 9am until about 7pm, with a long break for lunch. I usually check email and Skype with my loved ones to avoid going out into the dreadful cold!

Here are some pictures of my students and my classroom - I'm teaching in the "America" classroom, of course!  Tonight the other teachers are taking me out for my birthday.  This includes a huge fabulous dinner for less than a $1 a person, and then drinks at the "fancy" Holiday Inn bar.  Heee heee!

I will be going to Shanghai for Spring Festival on January 24th, where is it about 40 degrees warmer! Yay! I am hoping to meet up with a friend from Colorado, who is teaching in Seoul, South Korea.

Lots of love to everyone!

Beijing Hutong Visit

Today I took a tour of the Hutong - or "alleyways" of Beijing.  Hidden in these alleyways are the homes of the common people.  This is how most Chinese live.  Younger people chose to live in high rise apartments, but the older generations are still living in their "Five Element" homes.  I went with an excellent english speaking guide and a New Yorker from another hotel.

First we visited the Drum Tower of Beijing that sits on the meridian line of the city.  This line runs in the middle of the city and connects the Forbidden City with other important landmarks like the Drum Tower, the Bell Tower and even the Bird's Nest of the Olympic Park.  Drums were used to tell the time at night and to also signify the different seasons.  In China there are 24 seasons instead of the boring 4 found in Western culture.  Currently the season in Beijing is "Little Cold".  I was glad to hear that "Big Cold" had already passed...

Then we ventured into the Hutong area and took a rickshaw, since cars cannot fit down the tiny alleys.  We visited the home of a wealthy family.  They own all five sections of their house.  There are five sections for the five elements: earth, water, fire, metal, and wood.  This house was a home stay for German journalists during the Olympics.  This family home was taken away during the revolution, and was only returned by the government about 30 years ago.  

On to a common family home...This home was one room, divided into three sections.  Our hosts were older, had been married for 38 years, and he was a painter, and she was a middle school teacher.  They served us peanuts, sunflower seeds and jasmine tea.  They showed us his beautiful paintings and took pictures with us.  These are always my favorite parts of traveling - connecting with the local people.  You may not speak the same language, but you can understand a lot about each other.

Tomorrow I am on to the Great Wall of China at Simatai!

Temple of Heaven

Ni Hao!

That is the only Chinese word I know - hello. Yesterday I visited the Forbidden City, but for some reason my card reader won't read the counterfeit 4GB camera card Anders bought in London (Anders, WTF? Please advise!).  But today I used my normal, legit 2BG card and headed down to the Temple of Heaven.  I rode the subway all by myself.  I am continuously gawked and chuckled at.  Attached are a few images you might find interesting:

1 - me at the temple of heaven (god bless automatic timers)

2 - the temple of heaven (where emperors prayed for bountiful harvests and celebrated winter solstice)

3 - on Wangfujing street, the busiest shopping area, a picture monument to the recent earthquake

It's only 8pm here and I am really tired. Off to bed with me! Tomorrow I am taking a rickshaw tour of the old Hutongs - or homes.  This is supposedly a good way to view of the "real" China.  I don't know what the "fake" China would look like...Epcot Center?  It all looks pretty real to me...

I will be starting a blog so that I won't have to email everyone so often - or in other words, I won't constantly annoy you with my emails.  I will keep you posted!

Zai Jain!

I love you!

Kendall